#Affinity photo brightness menu bar manual#
The trick is to find a preset effect, or a set of manual adjustments that looks natural. Affinity Photo can ‘tone map’ a single RAW file just as happily as a merged exposure series, and other HDR software is the same. You don’t need to start from a bracketed exposure series, either. That’s what I’m using here, but it’s worth trying any other HDR tool you can get your hands on. And of all the programs I’ve tried so far, the Tone Mapping Persona in Serif Affinity Photo is the one that’s impressed me most. Tone mapping is just the first part of the HDR process, but it may be all you need. This may not be an HDR problem, but HDR software may have the answer – in particular, its ability to ‘tone map’ a very wide brightness range into a regular, viewable image. The Highlights and Shadows sliders in Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw can do an OK job, but you can be left with flat-looking contrast and ugly edge effects around object outlines.īut there is another way. There are regular image-editing tools that can fix this up to a point, such as the Shadow/Highlight command in Photoshop, but these typically leave nasty ‘glow’ effects.
You can make the brighter parts of the picture look wonderful but the shadows are left looking murky, or you can open up the shadows and leave the bright areas looking wishy washy. Even if your camera has the dynamic range to capture all the tones in the scene, there’s no way of showing them all. This is lighting problem, not a dynamic range problem. Sometimes you get scenes where the brightness range is so great you just can’t bring out all the different tones in the picture.
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